Small Lump Came Out Of My Nose

"Unu pieju and Atrua"

E 'August 1, 2010. It 'exactly one year since I suffered the injury in Raganello ... those dark days, I thought that my way of living the mountain would be restricted only to "a quiet walk." I felt I lost my freedom. Physical therapy before, after the gym, and even still, I have called in the sixth and also avoided a troublesome operation.

I made a couple of shots of climbing in June this year, nothing more, but today I feel (almost) ready ... and then the desire is so great! Yes, I want to try a new route that I had more or less draw with the eyes and mind on the west wall of the Timpa Porac, in "my" beloved Pollino National Park.

Companion adventure is Domenico Bloise, together we start this Sunday morning to experience the adventure. We head for the first of a series of columns side by side which one is the best, all possible attacks on our way. We choose the former. I'm excited, not hide it when I start to climb the first pitch are not so sure you complete it this way ... are not trained at this time for this sort of thing, it physically, but also psychologically. But after the easy first pitch, faced with a "flicker", and after the first step a little challenging in the second, something in me melts. I relax, and from there everything becomes easier.

Dominic reveals a great climbing partner, the aesthetic third pitch pulls from the first, then make sure the hard plate of the fourth and fifth on the beam.

The last shot is a masterpiece of Dominic, not so much for the aesthetics of it, but for the psychological strength to overcome that through a fifth-rock march.

We're out in the end came a beautiful street. "Unu pieju and Atrua ... the name is dedicated to the consortium of Franco, Salvatore, Dominic and Joseph in those days ran around the Monte Rosa, but also to all other our friends with us and how we live and love the mountains. And some is also dedicated to two of us ... after all, but very basically, we are unu pieju and Atrua, no?

Here Technical Report:

Attack:

From Haven Hill Marcion head for the large seat on the left of the south wall of the Timpa Porac, cross it and continue in the same direction. Just a few tens of meters you can see the characteristic and obvious pillars at the base of the west wall.

L1:

Attach the first pillar on the right steps (III) 8m. paying attention to some rock not too sure. Move slightly right into a groove (the height of the tree in the right channel)

and then up a short dihedral (IV) 12 m. Stop on nails right after the exit of the dihedral. (S2)

L2:

navigate up from the belay to the left oblique fissure (IV +) 3m.

navigate from here on excellent rock to the right (III) 9m. to stop. (Nails left to integrate with two nuts small / medium. (S3)

NOTE: The two pitches can be combined, but not too convenient to do so having regard to the curves and the inevitable friction.

From S3 S4 walking pointing to the wall above and then drive along for about 10m versodx. up to a nail next to a wooded ravine.

L3:

From nail (S4), first attack on steps (III)

then plaque (IV) 7m. to the tree of oak on which it is stationary. (S5)

L4:

starting from the tree directly upward to pointing a tiny plaque smooth mast (string) (VI-) 5m. then the difficulties fall significantly and you get to steps (IV-) (III) to S6 (two spikes)

L5:

From S6 beautiful cross towards the right, 18m. III and IV on the first corner that leads into the channel where there is S7 (two nails)

L6:

dihedral In the beginning (IV +) 4m. then traverse left on the rock is not good (V) 5m. and then back up, 16m. on low difficulty (II) to break out. (S8)