'AND' SHORT GUYS! "
forepart of Timpone del Corvo
5 L - 110m - VI - R1 - The
May 25, 2008
Luca D'Alba, Luigi Winner, Massimo Gallo
After about a year, I decided to report on this way of climbing we open sull'avancorpo Timpone del Corvo (thus avoiding any attacks by the dear friend Luca !!!).
The Timpone del Corvo, when viewed from the town of Frascineto front, as can be seen in the first pic, looks like a top of form almost pyramid composed of a single block, but really, if you look at the profile and then moving to one side (photo 2 and 3) shows that it is actually divided into two distinct parts, separated by a deep fork : the main body which is also the highest peak that stands with the maximum Timpone (846m) and the forepart, of course, which is about one hundred meters lower, which in turn has as its highest point in a narrow and sharp peak reached only by climbing the very steep and precipitous from every side. And 'this peak on 25 May last year we decided to climb me, Luca and Luigi, along a spur to the south-west with five pitches us has taken on the summit.
Approach: Once in the neighborhood of Frascineto head to the sports field, along the left (side entrance) and take immediately after the easy road that branches off to the right (identified by the presence of a fountain) with a few bends pointing towards the mountain.
past evident in the time of the Cave of the Well near a hairpin bend to the left, go right to the next, and soon after, another running back to the left, park your car.
Walk: Head to the right of the road through a valley and immediately begin to rise slightly diagonally on open ground at first and then through a grove of pine trees. Once Once you emerge above the treeline you see very well with the rocky buttress of ascent.
L1: insurance, hourglass, which you can add a nail, is part rock solid and well caught on (IV)
The climb becomes progressively more sensitive (V) to reach the final step of the shot, (VI) to be protected with an attractive hourglass and after a nail.
is parked on tree. shot Length: 20 m.
L2: It starts from the same tree to meet a nice step in dihedral, (IV) here the help of a comforting hourglass.
L2: It starts from the same tree to meet a nice step in dihedral, (IV) here the help of a comforting hourglass.
Then the land becomes easier (II) to stop after 25 meters of rope, holding on the edge of the spur on hourglass and nail (left).
L3: Depart still dihedral (IV +), then moved slightly to the right on the rocks a little less unstable, but more simple. Then left again at the point of the spur line through a plate a little delicate (V). All for 15 yards leading to intense stand up and spike nail.
L4: E 'shooting longest path. It may be convenient to divide it into two since the two curves going to do, first left then right, create a lot of friction.
L3: Depart still dihedral (IV +), then moved slightly to the right on the rocks a little less unstable, but more simple. Then left again at the point of the spur line through a plate a little delicate (V). All for 15 yards leading to intense stand up and spike nail.
L4: E 'shooting longest path. It may be convenient to divide it into two since the two curves going to do, first left then right, create a lot of friction.
is in part formed by a hint of fireplace wall and a large spike, (IV) (nail) then we proceed a few yards up easy rock to be in a small niche (hourglass). Go left by doing so the first corner on steps not very simple (IV + / V) up to a balcony. On the far left of the same make and start with a nail through the always to the left, which at first is very exposed, (IV) then protect them with a nut on a long diagonal crack (can not remember, but if I remember correctly Stopper No. 2) take you to another small balcony from which we bring the difficult step (useful for protecting a small tree) first-layer and then in a small dihedral that leads to rest. (V) Length 35 meters.
from the belay, there is a stretch of about 50 meters where you walk up to the summit to the base of the peak.
L5: You stay up in trees or on hourglass and head towards the aesthetic dihedral (IV-) very funny and protect (hourglasses) pointing to the sky and promises to take us to the top. After some beautiful passages on good rock, (15 m) is the peak (two nails left) of this, which is not a mountain in itself, but let's say a daughter of the majestic "Timpone", but it can give you unique emotions !
from the belay, there is a stretch of about 50 meters where you walk up to the summit to the base of the peak.
L5: You stay up in trees or on hourglass and head towards the aesthetic dihedral (IV-) very funny and protect (hourglasses) pointing to the sky and promises to take us to the top. After some beautiful passages on good rock, (15 m) is the peak (two nails left) of this, which is not a mountain in itself, but let's say a daughter of the majestic "Timpone", but it can give you unique emotions !
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